Even though I had backpacked the North Fork earlier in the season (Spring trip report), I was still excited to see the 14,000 foot tall Palisades towering above the turquoise lakes minus the mosquitoes and icy wind characteristic of early season backpacking.
Permits
Permits are required for all overnight trips and are reservable online at Recreation.gov. I’d argue that this is one of the most iconic backpacking trails in all of Inyo National Forest, so you’ll want to book online as early as possible, which is six months for this trail.
No available permits?
If you are having difficulty finding available permits, you can now sign up to track specific dates and be notified of any cancellations via Outdoor Status.
Click here for a list of all deadline and dates for reserving Sierra backpacking permits
Getting There
In the afternoon we arrived at Big Pine Campground and set up camp at spots #15 and #19. Being a summer weekend, the campground was filled completely, and there was a 2 night minimum stay. While we finished off a total of 3 bottles of wine by the river, we enjoyed the company of two pheasants who followed us around the entire time. That evening we hung around the fire eating banana boats at camp site #9, by far the best site in the campground.
Big Pine Creek flowing right by camp site #19
Site 15 at Big Pine Creek Campground
Wild pheasants roaming the campground
The Hike
The next morning we packed our bags and headed to the overnight parking lot about a mile from the trailhead. Instead of taking the dirt trail leading up the mountain directly from the lot, we decided to walk along the shaded road along the river to the true trailhead.
The crew at the overnight parking lot
At the true trail head ready to begin!
After walking along the river and passing the horse stables at 7800', the trail began its steady climb.
After a mile and some steep switchbacks, we crossed first falls at 8400'. We took the shorter and unmarked upper trail, even though it was more exposed. This portion of the trail was quite impressive as the dirt path gradually ascended as it cut across the mountain. After rejoining with the lower trail after 0.7 miles and now at an elevation of 8720', we entered Inyo National Forest and rounded the corner at an impressive waterfall cascade (Second Falls).
Well marked signs make sure you are on the right path early in the trail
Elaine posing at the top of Second Falls
Crossing the wooden bridge and reaching a junction
Continuously climbing upward, we passed a ranger station that used to be actor Lon Cheney's cabin.
Passing by Lon Chaney's cabin
A nice spot to take a break by the river
It was 3.4 miles until the junction that marks the beginning of our semiloop and an additional 1265' to climb. It was a relief to finally spot First Lake, at 9961', and it definitely seemed more turquoise than when I saw it several months ago.
Enjoying our first lake view
We decided to not leave the trail and instead head straight to Second Lake (10059'), where we would have lunch.
Temple crag and Elaine above Second Lake
Enjoying the magnificent view before us
After lunch it was a short hike to Third Lake (10249'), where many of the great campspots were already taken. A passing hiker suggested we head to Fourth Lake, which was only a 20 minute hike and saw much less traffic. We decided to explore the southern shore of Third Lake and eventually found a decent spot with a view of Temple Crag above the water. After dropping our packs, we all quickly headed down to the lake to jump in while still warm from our hike. Don't let the color of the lake fool you..the water was frigid! The milky turquoise color of the lake is due to the glacial powder carried from the melting glacier.
Vanessa about to hit the frigid waters of Third Lake
Soaking in the milky turquoise water characteristic of glacial lakes
Our campsite near Third Lake
That night we laid out and watched the milky way appear directly above Temple Crag. Even though the peak of the Perseids Meteor Shower was only a couple days ago, we still saw tons of shooting stars. Everyone had difficulty sleeping this night, perhaps it was due to the gusty wind throughout the night.
In the morning after packing up
The next morning we packed up and headed up to Summit Lake (10900'). It was only a 700 foot climb in about 2 miles, so we quickly reached our destination and had set up camp at the best site by 11:00AM. We were glad to not have headed up to Fourth Lake to camp the previous date, because the only campspot sitting on a peninsula jutting out into the lake was taken.
Elaine enjoying the reflection of Summit Lake
We decided to pack our day bags and head back down to Fifth Lake (10787'). Following the trail back to the western shore of Fourth Lake, we took an off trail up the ridge to the west to emerge above Fifth Lake. We crossed a log pile onto a small rock island and spent the rest of the day relaxing here.
Exploring a rock island at the outlet of Fifth Lake
The boys found some fishing line and bait and fashioned a hook out of a bobby pin in hopes of catching some fish. The line was too brittle and snapped on them, but it was an entertaining afternoon.
After the short and easy hike back up to Summit Lake, we decided to go for a swim. The water up here was much warmer and more relaxing to swim in.
The girls going for a swim in the relatively warmer water
View of the palisades and glacier from Summit Lake
Austin jumping into Summit Lake
Halirious gif of me jumping into Summit Lake
Mid day snooze by the lake
Elaine and Vanessa at sunset
That alpineglow reflecting off Summit Lake
A perfectly timed Cat's Meow jumping picture
Our campspot at Summit Lake was perfect for 3 tents
That night we feasted on the rest of our food, trying to finish it off before our hike out the next day. We were all completely stuffed with mashed potatoes, chicken rice, and cheddar broccoli rice. That night we decided to return to our swim rock with our sleeping bags to lay out and watch the stars one last time. The stars were so clear and bright that my first starry night photo turned out alright.
Blurry but starry night reflection
At one point we heard our peanut butter wrapper get blown up and off the rock. When we went looking for it, we realized a mouse had snatched it and was furiously working to extract the last licks of delicious nut butter.
A hungry mouse that made away with almond butter
The next morning we all got up at 6AM to watch the promising sunrise. Normally I have a hard time getting up early, but not when I'm backpacking in the mountains!
One of my favorite sunrises I've ever seen in the Sierras
The sunrise above Summit Lake did not disappoint. The entire range of the Palisades slowly began to glow from a deep orange to a golden yellow. The lake was completely still in the morning, making for great photos. It wasn't long until all of the jumping fish ruined the glassy reflection.
Glowing snow-capped mountains
Packing up camp for our hike out
The girls for one final picture before leaving Big Pine
It was a 0.4 mile hike back to Fourth Lake, and we couldn't find the trail that skirts around the eastern side of the lake, so it was another half mile around the western shore. It was a flat hike to Black Lake (10649'), which we briefly stopped at to enjoy before getting back on the trail. It was 1.5 miles from Fourth Lake till the end of the semi-loop. It was an easy hike out as everybody was eager to sit down to a large hamburger and fries.
When we got to the true trailhead, a gentleman was nice enough to drive me back to the parking lot, saving me an extra mile. Next time we see any hikers headed to the overnight lot, we will be sure to pay forward the favor!
Favorite gear for this trip:
